Other good keyboards
These keyboards aren’t quite good enough for the spots above or just don’t have standout features. They are still worth a look.
Razer BlackWidow V4 Pro 75% for $300: Razer’s latest and greatest keyboard does almost everything right, but it’s just way too expensive (7/10, WIRED Review). The Pro retains the same strong tactile switches and gasket mounting system as the original BlackWidow V4 75% and adds wireless connectivity, a new watch face on the side and a customizable OLED display right next to it. These upgrades don’t justify the $110 price increase, but they’re still incredibly well made and add up to make an impressive gaming keyboard if you can find it on sale.
Cherry XTRFY MX 3.1 for $119: Cherry’s latest entry into the gaming space is a full-size RGB-heavy keyboard that comes with its new MX2A switches and a “noise-reducing structure” meant to reduce typing noise. This keyboard is a solid option with a climbed sound profile, stylish RGB and a sturdy metal chassis. While it’s a little rough around the edges compared to some of the other keyboards on this list, it has a sturdy, no-frills build, and Cherry’s switches have repeatedly proven to be long-lasting and reliable.
Wooting 60HE+ for $175: Between an archaic mounting method and long wait times for delivery, I just can’t recommend the 60HE over Keychron’s Q1 HE. While I still think it’s a great Hall effect keyboard, it just doesn’t have the same polish and refinement as Keychron’s offering. The 60HE still uses a tray mounting system that, while modular, doesn’t sound or feel great to type on. Along with that, the plastic case is disappointing for the price; it was once an acceptable trade-off for customizable Hall-effect switches, but Keychron offers an all-metal, gasket-mounted keyboard for about $50 more, and I think the improvements are worth the money, unless you prefer a 60% layout or want the option of to use 60HE’s wide range of aftermarket drawers.
Cherry KC 200 MX for $90: The KC 200 MX is an incredibly simple and barebones keyboard that doesn’t add anything new or remove anything necessary. It’s a full-size mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX2A switches, a metal plate, and almost nothing else. It’s not customizable, it’s not programmable, but I can safely say that it will be durable, reliable, and at least somewhat entertaining to write on for years to come.
Happy Hacking Keyboard Professional Hybrid Type-S for $360: While the new Studio has replaced this model as my choice for programmers, this older version is still great if you want something simpler or with a unique writing feel. The layout is still fantastic, and the Topre switches – a part-membrane, part-mechanical switch with a deep typing sound and distinct, rounded tactility – are a joy to type on. Additionally, these keyboards have an extensive community of aftermarket parts and guides on how to modify them. The Pro Hybrid Type-S model has specific extras such as Bluetooth connectivity and sound dampening rings. It can also be reprogrammed using HHKB’s proprietary app, although there isn’t much reason to change the existing layout unless you want a specific macro or change to the feature layer. It’s incredibly easy to find on the used market for around half the price, making it a much more reasonable alternative to the Studio.
Melgeek Made68 for $149: With a more minimal approach to its design and a stylish white-and-purple color scheme, Made68 has a stunning desktop presence that stands out from the crowd. Plus, in-depth customization of Melgeeks’ Gateron-supplied Hall Effect switches means incredibly granular adjustments can be made to this keyboard’s typing experience, even down to the actuation distance of individual keys. The exterior can also be customized with removable side panels and a replaceable rear light diffuser. The diffusers are currently available in black, green and red, each with new silver side panels. However, you will need a screwdriver set to remove these panels, as an Allen key is not included with the keyboard. Overall, the Made68 sounds and feels good to write on. The tray mount isn’t ideal for typing feel, but the typical typing consistency issues aren’t as prominent here as other similar keyboards. At this price, a slightly lackluster typing experience is a worthwhile trade-off for custom Hall Effect switches and a satisfying typing sound.
Change recommendations
Photo: Henri Robbins
Switches are a big part of a mechanical keyboard – if you already have a board, try swapping the switches for a fresh experience. I’m working on a guide to my favorite switches, but below are my recommendations if you want a silent, tactile, or linear switch.
Silent switches
One of the most frequent things friends and family ask me about is silent contacts. For co-workers, roommates, family members or partners, the constant clicks and clacks of a mechanical keyboard can be tough. There are silent linear and silent tactile switches, but I find silent linear to be more acceptable in terms of typing feel and actual quietness. But even the best silent linear switches will feel a bit off compared to a non-quiet switch.
The best silent switch available today is Haimu heartbeat ($11 for 36 switches). Once lubricated, this switch is almost completely silent, and more importantly, it manages to do so with almost none of the “mushy” or “squishy” feeling that most silenced switches have. Instead, it has a clean and somewhat mellow bottom line betrayed only by the lack of audible response to accompany it. In second place, it sits a little more quietly Gazzew Bobagum. This switch is almost dead-quiet, and while it has the usual “mushy” bottom-out feel of silicone, it’s not too bad when the rest of the switch is as smooth as it is. If you’re a fairly light typist who doesn’t bottom out on keystrokes, or you don’t mind a slightly mushier bottom-out, these are great too.
Linear contacts
Linear switches are often the default choice for mechanical switches. My two favorites are from Gateron: Oil King circuit breakers ($49 for 70) and Cream Soda switches ($53 for 70). Oil Kings are one of the best linear switches available today. Out of the box they are smooth, sound great and require no modification. You don’t need to lubricate them, film them, change the springs or anything else. Just put them on a keyboard and you’re golden. The Cream Soda switches, on the other hand, are a fantastic mix of different switch technologies. Using a long-pole stem for a more distinct bottom-out sound, proprietary ink plastic for a smooth and deep sound, and hand-lubricated factory lubrication, they feel incredibly smooth and sound great right out of the box, even though can still benefit from adding movies.
Tactile switches
I find that many people look for the wrong things when shopping for tactile switches. While ultra-tactile contacts with distinct bumps are popular online, I find that these kinds of contacts often only feel good on their own and can be difficult for the average person to adjust to. Instead, I always advocate something in the middle: a crisp, responsive bump that isn’t so drastic that it distracts from typing or feels uncomfortable after extended periods.
The classics always stand: Durock T1 ($45 for 110) switches are a good starting point and I’ve always had a soft spot for them Novelkeys’ Cream Tactile ($12 for 10) switches, although you need to break them quite a bit compared to other switches. Drop’s Holy pandas ($42 for 35) mostly deserve their reputation—they’re a solid, heavy tactile that feels great to write on and I’ll always love Boba U4T for their great sound profile and good tactile bumps too.
Avoid these keyboards
Not every keyboard will be a winner. Here are a few that I don’t think are worth the price.
Satechi SM1 for $99: I feel in no way forced or inspired by this keyboard, and when you spend $100 or more on a keyboard, should be inspiring or at least enjoyable to use. The SM1’s typing experience is underwhelming even by the standards of a low-profile keyboard. It sounds hollow to type on, has a shallow and scratchy keystroke, and the build quality doesn’t feel solid at all. Despite being mechanical, I’d compare the user experience to a laptop’s built-in keyboard in terms of construction and typing satisfaction. Combining this with the lack of any customization software (which means a completely fixed layout) and the use of proprietary tactile switches with no hot-swap capability, the Satechi SM1 is an underwhelming keyboard all around, especially compared to standard-height mechanical keyboards in the same price range.
HiGround Opal Base 65 for $120: In my testing (5/10, WIRED Review), I found the Opal Base 65 to fall behind the competition in almost every way. With a tray mount, clunky software, and a one-piece plastic case, I can’t find any reason to choose this keyboard over any other.
KSI Wombat Willow for $145: I wanted to like this keyboard as it has everything I should like: a unique layout, a metal body, PBT keys and Gateron switches. But it just doesn’t work that well. The typing sounds hollow and sloppy, the typing angles are either completely flat or almost flat, and for some reason every time I turn on Caps Lock it automatically writes “20 02 00” (and after doing a factory reset, it writes “01 06 07” instead.I couldn’t find any way to solve this using KSI’s WB Pouch software the main keyboard’s Enter key can be pressed down with the thumb while in use, and the two rows of Function keys consolidate a lot of keys vertically to save on horizontal space.I wish the assembly and polish matched this keyboard’s grand vision, because the idea itself is fantastic.